Check the door thickness and the existing cutout. Euro profile cylinders suit most modern aluminum and uPVC doors, while mortise cylinders are common on wooden commercial doors. Measure the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the keyhole, then compare it with the specification sheet for the lock you are considering.

A panic bar is a mechanical exit device that releases the latch when pushed, so it works even during a power outage. A magnetic lock holds the door with an electromagnet and needs a constant power supply plus a release mechanism. For fire-rated exits, panic bars are usually the safer choice because they do not depend on electricity.

In most cases yes, but the frame must be aligned and the door must close squarely. Smart locks with a keypad or fingerprint reader need a clean surface for the sensor and enough space for the latch to extend fully. If your door has warped or the strike plate is misaligned, fix that before mounting the lock.

Match the closer size to the door weight and width. A standard interior door may need only a size 2 closer, while a wide fire-rated door often requires size 4 or 5. Also consider the opening frequency: high-traffic entrances need a closer rated for continuous use, not a light-duty residential unit.

Only if the seal carries the same fire-rating as the door assembly. Intumescent seals expand when heated and are designed for fire doors, while standard weatherstripping is not. Check the door label and the seal specification before combining them, because the wrong seal can void the door's certification.

Start with the number of users and doors you need to manage. Look at the credential type, whether it is a card, fob, or smartphone app, and confirm the system supports offline operation if the network goes down. Also verify that the electric strike or magnetic lock matches the door material and the voltage available on site.